Trip reflections
The Mt. Everest Expedition
has been most difficult for me to put my thoughts in perspective and reflect
upon them. I think the main reason for
this difficulty is that I could not solve my problems I encountered on the
mountain. I usually solve my own
problems and finish the task I set out to complete. I have been blessed with
strength both mentally and physically. I
have taken a portion of a letter my wife (Valerie) wrote about me and sent it
to a reporter who was writing an article on my attempt to summit Mt Everest to
complete the Seven Summits. She wrote:
“He’s a rock - a person of tremendous
strength both mentally and physically. He works steadfast towards a goal with
precision and perfection. He’s a good analytical problem solver with more than
one plan or solution when things go awry”.
You may read the complete
wonderful letter under “Reflections
on Mark’s Adventures”. I am sorry about this delay because many of you have been
wondering what happened and if I am okay.
Yes, I am in good health.
I would like to say I have
the greatest respect for all mountaineers.
There are some that push the envelope and win and others that push the
envelope and lose. What really matters is they are taking a chance to live their
lives to the fullest. They are alive by fulfilling
their dreams and goals. A person without
dreams and/or goals is a person without a vision for their life.
Climbing Mt Everest was the
hardest thing I have ever tried. The
high attitude climbing, weather, terrain, nutrition and duration of the climb weigh
heavy on you physically and mentally. In
one day, you can experience the whole range of human emotions. A great amount of energy and endurance is necessary
to continue throughout a long day or night when its cold, the wind is blowing, and
it’s snowing, all the while climbing high and steep above the rest of the world.
I could have a negative
attitude about my experience and yes it is hard for me to admit failure. My dreams and goals of summating
I am very optimistic about my
physical condition. The MRI completed
determined the condition of my sphincter valve and showed that it was operating
normally. The doctor said my sphincter
valve was operating as well as any normal person. This was good news but what was causing my
problem? Was my high attitude problem
physical or maybe mental? What caused
the acid reflux above 18,000 ft.? I have
gained all 35 pounds back I lost during my trip. My
body chemistry is out of balance because of the weight loss but will be within
control shortly.
The Decision
After seven weeks of mountain
conditioning, which included, climbing Mt Pumori, advance base camp (*abc)
twice, three times through the Khumbu
Icefall, three times to camp 1, three times to camp 2, and two times to camp 3 (24,500’),
my decision not to attempt a summit bid of Mt. Everest was based on the
following:
1. Inability to eat above base camp
2. Inability to keep food and water down
3. Inability to use any energy supplemental
food or drink
4. Inability to breath through my nose which
was caused by blood that had coagulated in my nose and closed off the air
passage. This had occurred about one month earlier when I ruptured the nose
vessels in my nose.
5. I estimated I would lose about 10 more pounds
without eating during the summit attempt which would be a total of 45 pounds of
body weight lost. I questioned myself, “Would
I have enough strength to get back down to base camp alive?” The
last time at camp 1, 2 and 3 was for 5 days of acclimatization and I had a hard
time getting back down to base camp because I was so physically weak. My climbing speed had been reduced to 50% of
my normal climbing speed. My climbing
speed was still average, but if my physical condition continued in this
direction, I estimated my speed would be reduced by another 50%. This would put me in a very vulnerable
position and a detriment to my fellow climbers.
All factors considered when
you cannot eat, drink and breathe, you are in big trouble. I made this decision to terminate my
expedition on my own terms, not the mountain’s and/or any others. This decision
postponed my quest for summating
I will return again in Late
March 2008 for one more attempt at Mt. Everest Chomolungma,
“ Mother Goddess of the Universe.
Regards, Mark